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tonguesandwich
02-20-2011, 07:03 PM
I am looking at the expensive brands vs the inexpensive and having little to no luck determining the difference by dissection. Is it worth the expense of the expensive brands? Trying to keep cost down and quality up.
I have never had a piston failure on any of my props with any brand. Thoughts?

gadget-evilusions
02-20-2011, 08:16 PM
What do you consider an expensive vs inexpensive brand. I have used cylinders from almost every manufacturer. Are you considering the difference non-repairable rolled construction cylinders vs repairable tie rod cylinders?

tonguesandwich
02-21-2011, 01:57 AM
Both....
Have you had failures with any brand?

gadget-evilusions
02-21-2011, 06:13 AM
I have never had a failure with any industrial pneumatic cylinder from any manufacture. That includes SMC, Bimba, Parker, Festo, Clippard, American Cylinder, Numatics, Tolomatic, Fabco and others. I have used cylinders from all of these manufacturers either in Haunt related applications, or my day job building filling and packaging machines. Bimba is probably the best all around supplier for range of products, price and availability.

tonguesandwich
02-21-2011, 02:21 PM
Thanks Brian!

RJ Productions
02-22-2011, 02:10 AM
I too have used many of the brands Brian listed. There was one manufacturer (can't remember which) has a weird thread size so you had to use their connectors.

Bimba seems to be one the most known manufacturer but I think as long as it is an actual industrial steel cylinder there shouldn't be any complaints. .

Now those PVC cylinders and hacked door closers????? Different story!! Considering there are actually still haunt vendors out there using water SPRINKLER values in construction of air cannons using just industrial parts is a BIG plus!!!

gadget-evilusions
02-22-2011, 02:10 PM
There was one manufacturer (can't remember which) has a weird thread size so you had to use their connectors.

That's where unifit thread fittings come in handy. They will thread into and seal on NPT, R, G, or just about any other thread standard you have.

Brandon_K
09-25-2011, 01:38 AM
A few things I've learned over the years;

If you're welding on a prop near a cylinder, remove the cylinder if you can. If you can't, wrap wet rags around them so the seals don't get fouled up.

When ordering new cylinders, I recommend a stainless rod. Some manufactures offer this as a standard, some do not (Bimba, for an example has high carbon steel for the rod on their non-servicable rolled cylinders, whereas on the same cylinder from Numatics, stainless rod is standard). Most haunts do not have proper refrigerated dryers installed, as such condensation finds its way into the cylinder. It might not be an issue during the season, but get a little water in there when you shut down for the season and the next year, that cylinder is rust-welded and it's done.

I've had two cylinder fail on me at this point. A 1" bore 1" throw Bimba (as said, it rusted itself shut due to the non-stainless rod) on a prop from a manufacture (who should have never used that type of cylinder on a "bouncing barrel" type of prop, especially when it was sold as "outdoor rated") and a 3/4" bore 7" throw trunnion mount Numatics, the seals have failed on that and won't fully extend or retract, plus it wastes a ton of air with the blow-by on the seals. I'm not sure why it failed as that one was never really abused (low pressure, low loads), but it did.