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View Full Version : How do I customize SPFX mask ("repaint it")???



johnm
08-30-2011, 10:53 AM
Hi guys. I have a SPFX Zombie Chopper mask. It doesn't have what I'd call the best looking "paint job".
The zombie has a pasty look... and I'd prefer a different look. Actually I really like the chopper zombie that's
on one of their YouTube videos. My goal is to customize it to look like the one below.

I have a small container of the Smooth-on Ecoflex 30, and a assortment of So-Strong silicone tint (Smooth-On also).
Here's my problem: I cleaned the mask thoroughly (alcohol & naptha), then mixed up the Ecoflex 30 perfectly in a
glass bowl. Threw in a bit of tint & mixed it thoroughly. Painted the mask. Waited and waited for the silicone on the
mask to dry. The silicone in the bowl dried within 3-4 hours. But the mask wasn't cured after waiting 3 days! I figured
it would dry eventually. But after 3 days I gave up and cleaned the mask with naptha... it cleaned up perfectly.

SO.... my question: Does anybody know of a "trick"... or something that I missed? Why didnt my Ecoflex 30 cure on
the SPFX mask? But it did cure inside the glass bowl. Is there any "artist" out there who's experimented with customizing
their SPFX masks? From what I've read, a person can send their older mask to SPFX and have it airbrushed/ customized.
I'd rather do it myself... and don't want to wait for shipping & SPFX's obvious waiting-time... as Halloween is approaching
quickly. Help!!!! ;o)

PS: as I mentioned, my chopper guy is pasty looking. I'd like him to look more like this one:

Allen H
08-30-2011, 11:33 AM
Eco flex 30 is a platinum based silicone, it will not cure on op of a tin based silicone (as well as a long list of other things including latex). Odds are good that they painted the mask with tin based silicone since it will cure on top of plat silicone. you should be able to paint with tin based silicone no problem.
Tin based silicone is in tubes of silicone caulking, as well as tubes of silicone sealant both found at HD. Tint with silicone tint (make sure the so strong tint is meant for plat silicone, I use it for urethane foam and blood but never silicone) Oil paints can also be used to tint but they arent 100% a sure thing.
Allen H

scarygoat
08-30-2011, 03:37 PM
I sent you a PM.

ianfxmen
08-30-2011, 04:14 PM
Ok where to start !!! i never paint a silicone mask casting more then 2 or 3 days after demolding it.you simply can not repaint a silicone mask that hasent been painted in a maximum of in the last couple days or so.no silicone paint will adhere properly over a siicone mask that as been done a couple weeks or month ago.it will look like it stick but will for sure delaminate pretty easy.Silicone mask are made with platinum cure silicone and painted with the same silicone the mask is made of or equivalent.

i would just personnaly never repaint a silicone mask ever.Good luck

ianfxmen
08-30-2011, 04:19 PM
if you really whant to do it use( ge silicone 1) or psycho paint or ecoflex from smooth on thinned down with toluene or naphta with really thin washes of color but be advise that it still wont adhere well and the risk of delamination is really high if the mask is stretched or handled.be carefull not to use latex glove or latex sponge since as soon as in contact with latex platinum silicone wont cure at all.None of the silicone mask compagnie offer full repaint service but just small repair for exac;y the same reason i mentioned above.ask cfx mask if they repaint mask they will tell you no since it just wont work.Do it at your own risk and good luck

scarygoat
08-30-2011, 05:06 PM
I think a big reason CFX doesn't do full repaints normally is the amount of paint it would take to completely cover up the previous coloring. But Ian is right, once a mask is painted, it is hard to re-paint it (and have it bond). I have done so using GE Silicone Caulking and it has worked very well, but yours may be a different case.

John could you post some pics of your mask? I'd like to see what you mean. Maybe it doesn't need a complete repaint, as much as more modeling and detail to break up the color. But I really can't know until I see it myself.

Allen H
08-31-2011, 03:12 PM
I pretty much agree with Ianfx, with the following exemption
I dont know if you guys have used GE silicone 1 lately, but the formula has changed. It is much more likely not to cure when tint and naptha are present. I used to use GE all the time, but now I cant use it or recommend itbecause of the change. Yes- GE silicone 1 used to be the bomb, but now the formula is different. There are a few threads about that on the FX lab forum but Its against HW's policy to allow links to other forums. I forget the exact brand name, but I used the silicone sealant (100% silicone) that comes in a blue green tube with great success a few weeks ago.
If you get an old tube of caulk the formulation is good, but the new ones from GE Wont kick.

Another thing to consider is that this is a zombie- its really hard to screw up a zombie so I say go for it.
Allen H

scarygoat
08-31-2011, 03:58 PM
Last time I purchased the GE 1 it worked just fine (w/ oil paints and naptha), that was a couple months ago, though. I haven't gotten any lately.

I agree with you Allen that a Zombie typically is hard to screw up, but the SPFX Chopper Zombie is really, really expensive. I think I would be a little wary of doing anything to it myself.