PDA

View Full Version : What order do you do your fireproofing?



TheGallows
05-17-2007, 11:41 AM
I am just trying to get a census on how you all do it. I know there was a recent thread but I am just wanting to know how everyone does it and gets away with it with the Fire @#%%#^# Marshall

Ryan

lurker
05-17-2007, 11:46 AM
When it comes to walls, I fire retard the raw wood, add FR additive to the paint, and usually hit it again before we open.

Uptown Haunts
01-31-2009, 11:31 AM
Ryan,

I have to agree with Lurker but my base coat of fire retardant treatment would be in the primer paint and then add fire retardant in the base color, top color with plain fire retardant sprayed on top of that. One area that is occasionally overlooked is the back of the wall panels. Hit these areas with either fire retardant primer or plain fire retardant sprayed on. Don't forget the tops and edges. This way, there's no way you can legitimately be accused of "missing a spot" when the Fire @#$%^& Marshal shows up. It may help to actually video record the process so there is some form of evidence if you're dealing with local officials who have egos larger than their titles and authority. This is not uncommon.

Steve....

Motograter
02-08-2009, 11:38 PM
When it comes to walls, I fire retard the raw wood, add FR additive to the paint, and usually hit it again before we open.

We did the same thing here

Uptown Haunts
02-11-2009, 06:07 PM
The biggest problems I have here are the Fire Marshal and Building Inspector. Each wants me to build my walls with steel studs and sheet rock. Wood materials are not permitted because they feel I could "miss a spot" when applying fire retardant. This is why I propose the use of fire retardant treated primer, base coat and top coat along with clear fire retardant applied on top of all that.

The local officials in this area also want to see fire ratings and other burn specifications for everything in the haunt including, but limited to, rocks, dirt, water, etc. Pretty rediculous, huh?

I will be proposing a compromise for the wall panel construction, although I don't suspect it will be approved. The wall panels I have in mind are a "sandwich" design; 3/8" plywood or OSB panel core with 2" wide 3/8" plywood or OSB strips around the perimeter like a picture frame. The space between the 2" perimeter strips would be filled with 3/8" sheet rock and then another 3/8" sheet rock panel over all of that which would cover the entire panel assembly. If I do the same on the other side, that would give me 5 layers (3/8" thick each) with a total panel thickness of 15/8" or 1 7/8". Good for space saving storage, sturdy construction and sheet rock to pacify the local officials (hopefully).

Since the wood is sandwiched between 4 layers of sheet rock in the mid section and 2 layers around the perimeter and treated with fire retardant, most would probably agree that I've minimized (or almost eliminated) any chance of fire consuming the 4x8 3/8" plywood/OSB panel at the core of the wall assembly. Unfortunately, this remains to be seen as I have not yet submitted this idea to the Township. They want architectural plans and drawins to scale as if building a high rise office/professional complex. And these plans have to be drawn up by a certified architect or engineer. Wish me luck. I'll be keeping all 12 fingers and toes crossed....

Steve....

Brandon_K
02-21-2009, 11:36 AM
Steve,

Thats nearly unbelievable. It makes me glad you're on the other side of the state from me. I thought our inspectors were rough, but that's just nearly insane.

drfrightner
02-25-2009, 11:59 PM
Fireproofing is best done when everything is done so after painting.

Yes fire proofing can leave some residue but in the dark no one will see it.

Always do your fireproofing after you finish your haunted house because someone might hang something or put something in a scene after the fact that is why you do everything last.

We only spray walls after the haunt is done because plywood isn't the thing that will catch your haunt on fire. I dare you or anyone else to try and get some plywood to catch on fire with like lets say a lighter you'll burn your finger off.

Will a spark set off plywood? NO!

Some idiot who worked for me once tipped over one of those 500 or 1000 watt shop lights on a piece of plywood and it was on there for like 2 hours and didn't catch on fire it did turn the wood in charcoal but i didn't catch on fire.

You can take a blowtorch and put it on plywood and it won't catch on fire or say ignite. It will take intense heat a major fire to turn that plywood into an inferno...by that time everyone is out of the building. Put a blow torch on cloth or jute and see what happens...BOOM FIRE!

The problems for fire is things that can IGNITE quickly and burn like jute, cloth, foam, or beleive it or not TRASH you not cleaning up your haunt.

A fog machine could catch on fire and then catch some other things on fire...

What I focus on is everything in the haunted house once its built... we will pump 100 to 200 gallons of fire retard on the whole place AFTER its one so the plywood walls get hit as well especially if they have anything like a curtain or something like that on them.

So my vote goes to AFTER!

Larry

xtremecreator
03-01-2009, 08:30 AM
Uptown, I had the same problem... If your fire department is on your side they will file it under a temporary attraction. This way you can use wood walls. The only catch to using wood walls for me is that I could not cover both sides of the walls, one side had to be open... which sucked. However our 2nd year we have no choice but to do the steel studs and drywall. No big deal and you dont need to fireproof it. We had a complete 10,000 square foot rain forest with trees, bushes, vines and leaves with mulch. They let us set up the entire thing up as long as we kept it raining the entire time. Luckily our 69,000 square ft building was completely equipped with floor drain every 8 ft. We also had to provide fire tests on every single type of material we used. That is easy. All you have to do is send your materials to NY FIRESHIELD and they can do the test on the materials in a few days and then send you the certifacate. Fire depts love that certifacate because it takes liability away from them...as they see it. Just another note. Fire proofing on top of normal paint will not pass the test. As far as Im concerned I have the strictest Fire Dept out there. It did not bother me a bit. I loved the learning experience and I just thought If I could solve it here ....anywhere else on the planet will just be that much easier. The funny thing that happened was the fire dept was so impressed with the set up, they invited 6 surrounding Fire Depts. to visit my haunt and see how its supposed to be done. After the walk through they invited us to lunch and paid for it! Dont let it get you down hurdle over it!

Wish you the best,

John

mindtumor
03-02-2009, 07:42 AM
If you are using the NY Fireshield, I fire proofed the walls before painting and then I added a different fireproofing additive to the paint and painted the walls. It is hard to ignite the walls but you have to do what you have to do. That is what I did for the walls. After the entire haunt is up and decorated I go through and spray EVERYTHING down with NY Fireshield. I don't redo the walls though but I spray anything on the walls. The problem is not everything will absorb the fire proofing. So my vote is before and after.