View Full Version : Interlocking haunt attraction walls
11-15-2007, 03:30 PM
New haunter here and I wanted to know what mechanisms are used for interlocking walls in haunted house attractions. I know Tombstone (built by Larry Kirshner) had them but don't know how they worked or what they looked like. Being relatively new to haunting, I'm not familiar with the various types of hardware which may have been used for this purpose but would like to know what other haunters have used. Thanx for your help in advance. After all, we're all in this together.
Boo Crew Production
11-15-2007, 05:07 PM
We predrill our wall panels so they are able to be bolted together not screwed. The system works great.
11-15-2007, 08:08 PM
What size bolts do you use and how many?
11-15-2007, 09:35 PM
I have done that, it never feels safe enough to go over say 10 feet up with that method. Or am I just being too worried?
Boo Crew Production
11-16-2007, 10:16 PM
I drill a 3/8 inch hole and use 5/16 bolts. Mind you my wall panels are 3/8 inch plywood on 2x2 frames. I use three bolts per joint. This along with bracing across the tops of the panels to keep them from swaying.
I have found this to be a very strong system. I had three rooms built this way out in our trail, and had an 8 inch diameter tree fall on the middle room with no damage to the wall panels it did rip my tarp.
11-17-2007, 05:24 AM
DroZombie, Why would you have to go over 8 feet high? Are your customers THAT TALL?
For more strength with increased altitude make the fist wall a 2 by 4 framed one, make the bottom plate of the next wall on top of the one 2 by 4 also, then reduce the sizes, this should help alot.
Bolt right through the middle of the 2 by 4 use washers to spread out the pull and keep the wood from indenting too much, use a socket wrench to pull it all together real tight.
11-17-2007, 04:45 PM
Any time you have an effect such as a vortex tunnel or a bridge that has large creatures to the sides, or have a bridge going through a swamp, all of a sudden the customers eyes are at the 8 foot level. Then in opposite room the walls need to be higher to hide the other walls.
The occasional entry way and facades look better if they are higher as well.
11-17-2007, 08:22 PM
If i were to create something that ment you didnt need any tools to put your walls togethor would anybody be interested. YOu would still need the 2 by 4's and plywood but no screws or bolts. If anyone is interested P.M. its still in the works but i think i have a system down
11-18-2007, 07:12 PM
Hmmm I'm not much help but we have to build to commercial standards. So we have a wood subfloor and frame our walls ... then wall them in.
Our first year we tried traditional "haunt" walls and had a very large, very scared lady move an entire maze 2 feet from where it should have been.
She comes back every year, and hasn't moved a wall since we went to more secure walls.
I'm still amazed to see her almost climb walls trying to get away from people!!!
11-19-2007, 01:42 PM
I don't know anything about interlocking walls other than the kind with an offset 2x4 in the wall, but those still have to be screwed together and braced I would think. All of my walls are 3/8 plywood on a 2x4 frame with the studs 24inch on center. Then I just screw the walls together and brace everything on top. I have tried hard to move these walls with 3 or 4 people pushing and the maze doesn't budge.
11-19-2007, 02:34 PM
Always like quick interlocking walls but cannot use them because my terrain differs so wildly all over the place. I am experimenting with vertical posts and 12 foot horizontals with the walls screwed onto them and the results are encouraging.
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