PDA

View Full Version : UV paint and black light, help!!



skullking1971
04-04-2008, 07:13 AM
I'm doing a clown maze this year at my haunt and i want to know what the best UV or black light paint is to use?? i also want to know if it's better to use a black light spot or a florescent tube light??? i used some stuff called ( wildfire ) on my toxic area a few years back and it gust didn't look that bright!!! any suggestions????

Greg Chrise
04-04-2008, 09:54 AM
Unfortunately, that wild fire is the stuff but, it has to be painted over white back grounds or white has to be applied where it is going to go first.

imax
04-04-2008, 10:02 AM
Wildfire is the best stuff out there, make sure to mix the paint before you apply it, because sometimes it settles a bit.

Greg is right, you need to paint it on a white background/base for it to work well.

And, make sure that your UV lights are good. Some don't do a great job with that stuff.

scattered screams
04-04-2008, 10:16 AM
I use sargent art fluorescent tempera paints. They show up real nice on white base and very bright under blacklight. As for a black base you really cant see the paint but after the blacklight is on it shows up real nice also. A big plus on this paint is that it flows smooth out of an airbrush gun.

damon carson
04-04-2008, 11:41 AM
Use Dayglo it is extremely bright by itself! On white its even brighter!
Damon

skullking1971
04-04-2008, 01:18 PM
I did not use a white back ground last time, it was on some expanding foam so maybe thatís why it didnít work so well, but I will definitely use a white back ground this time, thanks for all the input guy !! also should I use gloss or satin white.???

imax
04-04-2008, 01:58 PM
I would go with flat white if you can get it. Hell, even just a white primer like KILLZ would do the trick.

Wildfire also sells a UV protective coat that I highly recommend. It protects your work quite a bit, especially if you are in a rough environment.

Greg Chrise
04-04-2008, 07:49 PM
Yes, primer or kilz or if the surface already has paint on it any house or sign paint.

In real production work using this stuff lots of big stencils would be used to first apply a shape of white then after it dries the florescent can be sprayed on using the same stencil.

For the advanced class, there is a thing known as underpainting where the white back ground gets shadow effects applied in light washes of grey and then the florescent which acts to a degree like a transparent looks like you have somehow shaded the florescent tones.

Or the other way around, you prme something, do all of your detail painting then completely mask that off to do the back ground.

The sketch book is quite detaled to plan out in some cases multiple stencils of multiple colors.

If you go to the trading post, and look at the second example by Stewart Smith, do you notice some repetition in the basic shapes? One wall is blu, the other is green but the basc shapes are identical, just moved and detailed to different degrees.

On a smaller scale, even toxic blobs might be a number of pre cut stencils so all the blobs have the same shape as something viscus and oozing in nature, then trace or spray white, then the other color for shading, then the final florescent tone. And, this preparedness with stencils allows second coats of the final color if they do not show up as bold enough.

spookhaven
04-04-2008, 08:05 PM
Did you try clear neon? I used it and it worked really well. We even used it on plastic and it showed up with a small 2 ft black light. If you can't find it, let me know. I have a dealer license with them.

drfrightner
04-07-2008, 11:39 AM
We mostly use www.Dayglo.com

We use some Wildfire but not much.

Larry