HauntWorld Home - Forums Home - Live Chat - Find Haunted Houses - Hauntworld Magazine - Haunted House Supplies - America's Best Haunts - Find Vendors
Haunted House News - Haunted Tradeshows - Join Hauntworld Facebook - Hauntworld Twitter - Advertise - Contact Us

Thread: Haunted House Maze Construction?

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 22
  1. Default Haunted House Maze Construction? 
    #1
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    4
    I have a simple question that I think I already know the answer... I'm in the process of doing my pre-planning for a haunted house I plan on doing in 2015. I plan on using vacant commercial rental property, and the vacant properties that I have my eyes on are all old closed down grocery stores, so needless to say I will have more then enough room to do two haunted houses... a traditional style haunted house maze, and a basic black-light 3D house.

    In the meantime I'm doing an elaborate home haunt maze at my house this year and next year until I can get my ducks in a row for what will become a real Haunted Biz.

    My question is about the construction of the maze, and how the maze walls are secured to the floor. I used to work at Halloween Horror Nights in Orlando in set design and prop making, but I was never part of set construction. The park brought in outside construction contractors to build the mazes, and then we came along and added on to them with props, paint, sfx, and what not.

    I assume that the maze walls are secured to the concrete floor with concrete bolts, but want to confirm this and see what the options were for securing the walls.

    This is something I need to figure out before I begin negotiating with the rental company that owns the property in question. I need to figure it out so I can let them know in advance that I will be planning on drilling into their floor to secure the walls.

    I also know that I will need to run my building plans by the local Fire Marshall and building dept. first, but before I can even begin pricing out the cost of construction I will need to figure out this one item.

    I should had paid more attention when I was on HHN's staff but I was having too much fun doing what I do.

    Any pointers will be great!
     

  2. Default  
    #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    411
    Three possibilities really-

    Tapcon Screws 1/4" x 3" or bigger. Requires a hammer drill to pre drill the screw holes into the floor. Medium fast installation and pretty strong.

    Ramset nails 3". Requires the ramset gun which can be rented, power loads and nails. Really fast, but probably the weakest type of connection. May NOT be suitable if you have high impact expectations on your wall panels.

    Drop in concrete anchors. Requires a hammer drill again, anchors, threaded rod, nuts and washers. Slow installation, but the strongest by far.

    The all leave a mark- as in a hole in the floor. The tapcons probably leave the smallest hole and the ramsets usually end up leaving a small crater when pulled.

    You better talk to the property owner/manager about what method will keep you out of trouble with them first.

    Good luck
    How can a man die better than facing fearful odds, for the ashes of his fathers and the temple of his gods.

    What you put into your mind- you put into your life.


    www.zombietoxin.com
     

  3. Default  
    #3
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by zombietoxin View Post
    Three possibilities really-

    Tapcon Screws 1/4" x 3" or bigger. Requires a hammer drill to pre drill the screw holes into the floor. Medium fast installation and pretty strong.

    Ramset nails 3". Requires the ramset gun which can be rented, power loads and nails. Really fast, but probably the weakest type of connection. May NOT be suitable if you have high impact expectations on your wall panels.

    Drop in concrete anchors. Requires a hammer drill again, anchors, threaded rod, nuts and washers. Slow installation, but the strongest by far.

    The all leave a mark- as in a hole in the floor. The tapcons probably leave the smallest hole and the ramsets usually end up leaving a small crater when pulled.

    You better talk to the property owner/manager about what method will keep you out of trouble with them first.

    Good luck
    Awesome and thanks... my cousin is a local home builder and he suggested the Tapcon screws, and did not know of any other options. I figured that the walls were secured to the floor and I will have to drill.

    I might build a small mock test wall panel and put it up in my garage this summer to see how sturdy it is and how much damage the Tapcon screws do to my concrete both during the installation and removal. This way I can assure the property owner of how much mess I will make, assuming they will allow me to make a mess.

    My area has a ton of vacant commercial property to choose from so I should have the pick of the litter.
     

  4. Default  
    #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Eastlake, Ohio
    Posts
    833
    In our current location, I use 1/4" tapcons as well, just one on center of each wall.

    However, at our old location, we had to set up and tear down with no damage behind. A good amount of bracing, good wall placement, and wood shims, kept our walls from coming down for the 6 weeks we were open every year.
    Brian Warner
    Owner of Evilusions www.EVILUSIONS.com
    Technical Director of Forsaken Haunted House www.Forsakenhaunt.com
    Mechanical Designer (animatronics) at Gore Galore www.Gore-Galore.com
     

  5. Default  
    #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Brilliant Ohio
    Posts
    329
    Better to beg for forgiveness than ask for permission If your maze doesn't need to go all the way to the ceiling, why not "secure" the maze walls across the top of the walls, with 2x4's. Erect the walls as normal and instead of securing them into the floor, secure them at the top, kind of like sitting an open bottom cage on the floor. If done right, it could be very sturdy and thus eliminating the problem with the concrete floor. Building a sub floor, then building on top of it could also be an option
    Like a midget at a urinal, you gotta be on your toes

    http://www.wellstownshiphauntedhouse.com
     

  6. Default  
    #6
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    5
    After removing the 'Tap-Cons', go around and squeeze a dab of concrete repair 'stuff' (PL products) into each hole and smooth out with a putty knife. Won't even know that you put holes in the floor.
     

  7. Default  
    #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    9,072
    I would never nor have I ever since the dark days of haunting secure any walls to the floor! Why would you do that? What if you want to move the haunt to a new building you going to go around and pop them all out of the floor? There is NO NEED WHAT SO EVER to secure the walls to the floor. As long as the walls are secured to each other top bottom and middle explain how they are going to move? A maze could have hundreds and hundreds of walls and one secured to the next to the next to the next they just aren't going to move. I would NOT secure them to the floor!

    Larry
     

  8. Default be safe than sorry 
    #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    360
    Even temporary sets at our place is secured into the floor (they are cement).. Why? Maybe we actually scare people? At our place not only are the walls secured to each other they are secured to the floors.. If your scaring them properly they will move walls.. A couple of years ago with 1/2 inch plywood on both sides we forgot to shoot a couple of walls into the floor and a group of folks took out and eight foot section of the other side of the scene.. We had to stop the show for about 20 minutes to repair.. Never again..
     

  9. Default  
    #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    9,072
    Slain,

    I'll make you a bet... you can walk through The Darkness with a bulldozer and you won't move a wall (not secured to the ground). Now go through one of our modular haunted houses with a wrecking ball they won't move and they are NOT secured to the floor.

    Tell me.. how do you think a haunted house is secured to the floor if you are a screampark and you are setting up on dirt? You can't so it must be possible to to set up a haunted house without securing to the floor. I know its possible because we do it and have done it over 100 times with mazes we've built around the world.

    I'm telling you for a fact no one needs to secure to the floor and your walls will NOT move ever! I can give you a tour through my modular haunts next Halloween show sitting on gravel and you'll break your foot if you try to kick them and move them, or you'll break your shoulder before you can move them one or the other.

    The walls do not move!

    There is not one wall in Darkness, Creepyworld, or Lemp that is secured to the floor... not one maze we've ever done around the world secured to the floor. In the very early days of our haunting we did pop nails into the floor to secure the 2x4 but we haven't done that in over 20 years.

    Larry
     

  10. Default  
    #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Eastlake, Ohio
    Posts
    833
    Quote Originally Posted by drfrightner View Post
    I would never nor have I ever since the dark days of haunting secure any walls to the floor! Why would you do that? What if you want to move the haunt to a new building you going to go around and pop them all out of the floor? There is NO NEED WHAT SO EVER to secure the walls to the floor. As long as the walls are secured to each other top bottom and middle explain how they are going to move? A maze could have hundreds and hundreds of walls and one secured to the next to the next to the next they just aren't going to move. I would NOT secure them to the floor!

    Larry
    Our building department required our wall panels to be secured to the floor with 1 tap con each. They also required any wall panels stacked over 8', (for example, our 16' facades), to be bolted to each other, and not just screwed.
    Brian Warner
    Owner of Evilusions www.EVILUSIONS.com
    Technical Director of Forsaken Haunted House www.Forsakenhaunt.com
    Mechanical Designer (animatronics) at Gore Galore www.Gore-Galore.com
     

Thread Information
Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions
  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •